Oceanista Opening Night – Marcus Elizabeth and the Dialogue with the Audience
The opening night of Oceanista – Fashion and Sea at the National Maritime Museum became a moment of deep connection for me as Marcus Elizabeth. More than seeing my work placed among international fashion houses and celebrated Dutch designers, it was the way the audience approached the piece that defined the evening.
Visitors arrived in Ocean Elegance as the museum shifted into a world shaped by water, reflection and movement. Music by Nathifa Efia floated through the space, creating an atmosphere that felt cinematic, calm and resonant. In this setting, my work began its own conversation with those who stopped to observe, question and reflect.
The audience and the story behind the garment
Throughout the night, people leaned in with curiosity. They asked about the materials, the symbolism, the history held in the garment, and the meaning of the headpiece. These exchanges felt warm and sincere. I was more than happy to share the story, because this work carries the core of what shapes me as a designer: heritage, memory and the tension between beauty and truth.
The meaning and inspiration of the piece
The look presented at Oceanista is rooted in my graduation collection from Academie Artemis. That collection was a statement of my Black heritage and a tribute to the resilience found in the stories of those who came before us. One of the figures that shaped the emotional landscape of the work was Virginia Dementricia, an enslaved woman known for her quiet act of rebellion by secretly wearing the garments of her master. Her defiance, dignity and courage continue to guide my practice.
Cotton plays a central role in the garment. Not only as a material, but as a reminder of labour, resistance and the lived experiences on cotton plantations in the former colonies. The blouse shown in Oceanista was originally the centrepiece of the collection, featuring my Guardian pattern for the first time. The pattern is inspired by my grandmother, Selma, and reflects protection, grace, and ancestral presence. The open back symbolises both the vulnerability and the strength of Black women, holding softness and power within a single gesture.
The headpiece, created in collaboration with Fleur Ouwerkerk, deepens this narrative. Inspired by the cotton plant and shaped with pearls that trace the directions and reach of maritime trade routes, it carries the weight of history and movement. For me, it represents identity, ancestry and the stories that continue to travel through us, echoing both delicacy and defiance.
Oceanista within the wider landscape
Oceanista places maritime culture at the centre of fashion, with work by Chanel, Maison Margiela, Versace, Jean Paul Gaultier, Thom Browne, Balmain, Off White, Moncler, Iris van Herpen, Duran Lantink, Botter and others. Standing among these voices while contributing my own perspective felt like a meaningful affirmation of the path I am shaping as Marcus Elizabeth.
Talk Black Achievement Month
As part of the wider programme, I also took part in the Talk Black Achievement Month panel, where I shared insights about creative identity, representation and navigating cultural spaces as a Black designer. Speaking about these themes while the garment stood nearby created a powerful sense of alignment between the work and the conversation.
Visit the exhibition
Oceanista – Fashion and Sea is now open at the National Maritime Museum in Amsterdam. The exhibition runs from 10 October 2024 to 12 April 2026 and can be visited at Het Scheepvaartmuseum, Kattenburgerplein 1, Amsterdam.
